FREQUETLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Carpet Care Guide
WOOD FLOORING CARE GUIDE
General
Wood
Carpet
Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT)
Loop pile carpets should be vacuumed with a cylinder cleaner using the suction head only. Avoid using beater heads and brushes – they will catch and lift the fibres, giving your carpet a bobbled or felted appearance.
Cut pile carpets should be vacuumed with an upright cleaner with a beater bar and brush.
The key to good carpet maintenance is to avoid particles of loose dirt and dust from working their way into the carpet pile where they will act abrasively on the fibres and could discolour the carpet.
- Vacuum regularly at least two or three times a week
- A large, strong doormat will reduce dirt from outside being spread around the house
- Avoid where possible laying light coloured carpet next to external entrances
Follow these general rules for dealing with spillages. For more persistent or unusual stains contact a professional carpet cleaner:
- Spillages are more easily removed it tackled immediately. Blot off all the liquid stain with dry kitchen roll or a clean dry white cloth. Semi solid substances should be removed with a plastic spatula.
- To clean off any remaining stain use a damp cloth soaked in warm water with a little white vinegar to blot the stain. Use a dabbing action with the cloth and then blot out the remaining liquid with a dry kitchen towel.
- Do not rub the pile surface or oversoak the stain.
- Always work from the outside of the stain inwards to minimise the stain spreading.
All carpets using a spun yarn will shed excess fibres when first installed. The duration of the shedding of these fibres will vary dependent upon the frequency of vacuuming and the type of machine used. This is to be expected and does not mean there is a defect. The short fibres given off represent a very small fraction of the pile.
Occasionally you may find a stray tuft extending above the pile surface. Provided your carpet is a cut pile, carefully cut the tuft with sharp scissors to the level of the surrounding pile.
As a natural fibre, pure new wool is washed and scoured before being spun into carpet yarn. Throughout the manufacturing process it is also inspected and natural minor imperfections removed. Even so, fitted wool carpets may, on rare occasions, contain slight traces of sheep’s outdoor environment. In such instances, the manufacturer’s may reserve the right to carry out small on-site rectifications.
All cut pile fabrics of any fibre type will flatten to some extent in traffic lanes and areas of concentrated wear. This can make the carpet appear a different shade but is in fact caused by the pile reflecting light differently. Regular vacuuming will help present flattening. This flattening and shading is a normal reaction to localised traffic and is not detrimental to the performance of the carpet.
Like shading, this occurs when the pile or nap of the carpet changes direction and thus reflects light at different angles showing the effects of shading which can become permanent. It is also described as ‘watermarking’. This can happen to all cut pile carpets and can occur quickly after installation. Like shading it can be more apparent on plain carpet because heavy patterns can disguise the effects. A huge amount of research has been carried out over many years to determine the cause of this phenomenon but none of it has proved conclusive. There is no commonly known manufacturing process which can cause or cure this phenomenon and therefore it is not considered a manufacturing fault.
Carpets with a high wool content can and do fade over time. This type of fading is caused by exposure to ultra violet light which lightens or bleaches the wool. The degree and speed of fade can vary depending on the colour chosen and the local conditions to which the carpet is subjected. To reduce fading of carpets in rooms with strong exposure to the sun (e.g. south facing rooms), the use of sun blinds or curtains is recommended.
Pet paws, claws, rubber sole shoes and heels can be abrasive on carpets, particularly where use is constantly concentrated to small areas. Move furniture occasionally to avoid any distortion to the carpet pile.
Pilling can sometimes occur on loop pile carpets. The expression is used to describe little balls of fibres which collect on the pile surface, similar to the type of pilling that can occur on a sweater. To avoid pilling vacuum with a cyclinder cleaner using the suction head only.
The feet of furniture will create indentations on any carpet. To help reduce marking, regularly move the furniture and any heavy objects where possible. To help lift the pile back up, use a coin to ‘gently’ tease the carpet pile upright.
Thank you for purchasing your new wood floor from The Silkroad Interiors and Flooring. To help you care for your flooring this leaflet has useful advice on cleaning and maintenance.
Day-to-Day Basis (as the need arises)
Hoovering and the use of a damp mop (i.e. very well wrung-out mop) will suffice for day-to-day cleaning to remove dust, dirt and light debris.
Periodically (monthly depending on use)
To maintain the floor on an ongoing basis and keep it in a clean condition, the ‘Wax & Clean’ product (sold in the showroom) should be used at intervals to suit your needs. This is a neutral cleaning liquid, which is added to water and can be applied using a mop. Ensure the mop is well wrung out (no wood floor likes excess water!). ‘Wax & Clean’ leaves a thin wax coat after drying to further protect the finish of your wooden flooring. Allow the floor to dry as usual before walking on it. This should not be done for the first time less than 14 days after applying any Hardwax Oil.
Less Frequently (6 – 12 months intervals depending on use)
A coat of maintenance oil can be applied if your flooring is looking a little ‘tired’, this will return the lustre. Directions are detailed on the tin – drying time will be between 6 – 12 hours depending on the temperature and ventilation.
Where coloured hardwax oils have been used, the flooring will need to be maintained using the appropriate coloured maintenance oil. This will replenish the localised loss of colour caused by heavy use.
It would be best to clean the floor first using the ‘wax and clean’ product and then apply a thin coat of the appropriate maintenance oil, using a lint free cloth. Allow to dry and determine if it is necessary to apply a second thin coat.
Household Conditions
Whilst engineered wood flooring is far more stable than solid wood flooring, it can still react to extreme hot or cold conditions as well as varying humidity levels. If the atmosphere is too moist the floor will expand, too dry and gapping may occur. Neither are faults of the product, but they are indicators that lifestyle modifications may be required:
- If gapping occurs, ambient conditions are excessively dry and moisture is needed in the room.
- If expansion occurs, the atmosphere is too moist and will need to dry out.
- It is important to maintain a stable level of relative air humidity between 45 and 65% to avoid excessive gapping.
Underfloor Heating Important Points:
- Once the wood is installed the underfloor heating system should be set to gradually reach its temperature (approx. 3-5 degrees per day).
- The maximum temperature transfer through the screed base should not exceed 28 degrees.
- Engineered wood flooring is less vulnerable if underfloor heating is set at a gentle and constant temperature, as opposed to turning off, allowing to cool and then ‘boosting’ up to a high temperature i.e. a sudden fluctuation in temperature is far more likely to cause the wood to react.
- There is always a risk of small openings forming between the planks – this is a natural response of the floor to the changes in temperature.
- Prevent thermal blocking (when the heat flow is blocked) by ensuring airflow is possible (i.e. under furniture and rugs) thereby preventing the build up of excessive heat which could lead to the cracking of the floor or delamination.
Yes! We ask that you remove all valuables and breakables before our arrival, however, we can move larger pieces of furniture if required. This can be quoted for if requested.
Yes! Whilst we can provide this service, it does come with a nominal charge as the disposal of commercial waste is expensive, however, this additional cost can be saved should you wish to dispose yourself at your local recycling centre
It depends totally on the product. Most carpets have a fairly short lead-time, however, we can only ever be sure of dates at the point of order. Our more specialist and bespoke products can take longer depending on what is required. We will always keep you informed and where possible we will work around your schedules or, if required, liaise directly with builders to ensure a seamless installation service.
Underfloor heating can be installed underneath engineered wood boards, luxury vinyl tiles or stone. Low tog carpets can also be installed over underfloor heating. In all cases the heat standard levels should not exceed 27 degrees Celsius. As a general rule, it is far kinder to your flooring to have your underfloor heating on lower and more consistently than turning off and on regularly.
Yes! Subfloors must be dry. We will always take a damp proof meter reading to gauge moisture levels prior to installation and if necessary a damp proof membrane can be laid.
We would never recommend doing so. Removing the old flooring and ensuring the subfloor is in good order is best practice.
No! All flooring is produced in batches which can differ slightly in colour. UV light will also have an impact on the existing floor which would render it unlikely to be an exact match. Sometimes the installation of a threshold between the rooms can help if the colour is slightly off.
Engineered boards are constructed with cross-ply finished with a solid top layer of wood. This construction offers a more stable product which is less likely to react negatively to moisture or temperature. Engineered boards are suitable for underflooring heating and the top layer of an engineered board also allows for sanding (2-3 times) if required. Solid boards are cut from one piece of wood and can be load-bearing as well as sanded if necessary. However, due to its solidity the wood can expand and contract which renders it less reliable than engineered boards if considering installation in areas such as kitchens and bathrooms.
Both types of wood have longevity and if looked after will last a lifetime! See our Wood Floor Care Guide. We would always recommend a wax/oil finish which negates the need for sanding. If scratches do occur, the floor can be re-waxed and brought back to prime condition. No wooden flooring is scratch-resistant whatever the finish, however, whilst a lacquer finish can effectively protect the floor, if scratches do occur, it is much harder to restore than a wax/oil finish.
Engineered flooring can installed into bathrooms, however, the floor will move if exposed to high levels of moisture. Ideally, the flooring should be installed before any white goods.
Wood does require expansion gaps to allow for expansion and contraction with temperature changes. LVT does not require expansion gaps and can be fitted flush with skirting boards. Where possible, and to ensure crisp joins, the flooring should be fitted on to a clear floor with white goods, kitchen units etc installed on top.
Yes! Simply follow our guidelines and your floor will remain looking great for years to come.
Prime A/B Grade: these planks are taken from the centre of the log and have minimal sapwood, few to no knots and low colour variation. These plants are the ‘cleanest’ and most uniform looking.
Select ABC Grade: these planks are a mix of planks creating a balanced look with smaller knots and some colour variation.
B/C Grade: More natural characteristics of wood containing more variation in colour, larger knots and a mix of heartwood and sapwood.
Rustic Grade: This is the most natural looking which includes larger knots, colour variation and some filled cracks.
The shorter the pile the less likely wear will show so look for low or medium-pile carpets. Loop pile carpet – whether made from wool or man-made fibres – will also wear better and resist flattening better than cut-pile.
Underlay plays an important role in supporting carrpet therefore it is always recommended to replace underlay to improve comfort, durability and insulation. If your existing underlay is in good condition replacement might not be necessary and we can advise at the site visit.
Refer to our Carpet Guidelines (LINK TO GUIDELINE PAGE) for advice on carpet maintenance and cleaning.
Good quality wool carpets offer excellent insulation properties, are resilient and luxurious, however they are more expensive than carpet made from synthetic fibres. Synthetic carpets are budget friendly and better resistant to staining. We would always recommend seeking advice in our showroom and comparing the different types of carpets. Ultimately it will come down to personal preference.
Yes, although paying attention to the tog values of carpet is important – the lower the tog value the more efficient the underfloor heating.
Pro-longed use of rollercasters chairs on carpet will start to negatively impact the carpet and the backing. We would always recommend some form of matting to protect the carpet.
Sweeping and cleaning with a damp cloth will keep your flooring in good shape. Use a microfibre cloth for any spills. No floor likes excess water which is why using a steam cleaner is an efficient and effective way of cleaning an LVT floor.
Yes. Luxury Vinyl tiles are made of plastic therefore are very strong and practical. They mimic natural products such as wood or stone, can be better value than their natural counterparts, are water resistant and suitable for underfloor heating. With such a varied choice of tiles or wood, they can be installed anywhere in your home to great effect.
In order to install LVT we need a smooth subfloor. We will undertake all subfloor preparation work to ensure that your subfloor is good enough to install LVT. If there are any imperfections in the subfloor, these will effect the LVT which is why more often than not subfloor preparation is required.
Yes this is possible and we would always come and look at the damage to assess the best method for replacement.

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